Skip to main content

More summer bouldering in Scotland

Perhaps the worst time of the year to boulder in Scotland, July and August: midges still kicking about with the horseflies, the bracken at Jurassic height, the air humid and muggy, the rain biblical when it hits, impassable rivers in spate, the sun baking and lethargy-inducing. If you're not in the higher hills, it's a good time to head to the cooler coastal venues . . .

In Ayrshire, some new caving has been discovered, with plenty of potential. Some impressively steep caves may provide sport for the 8th grade climber and all will be revealed soon. Here's a pic of Colin Lambton on 'Mejico Prow', a fine 7a at the new venue.

Callum Johnson  has been on the Isle of Arran and added a sit start to The Snare on Clach Dhruim a Charn to give The Rhythym which adds a little bit to an already brilliant problem! His party also added a few new problems in Glen Sannox: a technical wall problem on the front of the scooped project boulder which was Technical Merit and on the Great White boulder the south east arĂȘte that arches over the burn - an amazing feature that required some cleaning but yielded some brilliant moves up slopey lip holds to a crux mantle onto the steep slab: Jacks Little Brother 6c. At Cummingston Callum added a crimpy wall problem on the section between Batty Bat and The Shield giving; Attack Attack 6c. At Cullen Caves he completed a full low traverse of the sports wall giving To The Sea! 7a, a technical pumpy traverse.
Back in June, Chris Miele and friends added a tricky line at Glen Lednock: The Hurde (6c/7a) - the left arete of the kist boulder from sitting at a low crimp and high block.  03/06/13 - Chris Miele

In Glen Croe, Fraser McIlwraith added 'Float like a butterfly, sting like a Bieber' (7a+), a dyno from standing off a small crimp rail to lip, just right of The Nuclear Button.  04/05/13 - Fraser McIlwraith



Popular posts from this blog

Plato's Cave

In his famous 'allegory of the cave', the Greek philosopher Plato pondered the artificiality of reality in imagining how we could be fooled into thinking shadows on the wall (i.e. virtual reality) could be seen as 'real' life. I'm paraphrasing, of course. What has this got to do with climbing? Well, I was pondering this myself recently while sitting on an artificial concrete boulder at the new Cuningar Loop bouldering park in Glasgow. Does it really matter that a boulder is made of concrete, surrounded by plantation and skirted with kind gravel traps rather than tree roots and spikey boulders? Isn't the 'real' thing so much better: the isolated erratic bloc deposited by geology's long-term aesthetic artwork? Well, yes, that's entirely up to you, but sometimes the artificial saves the day ... I was scuppered by Glasgow's cross-town traffic and turned back to my local artifice that is Cuningar to climb the blue circuit I had imagined as

Timeline Walks of Scotland #Culbin Sands

The Moray Firth’s sand-bitten southern coast, between Findhorn and Nairn, is home to Scotland’s most cautionary tract of land. Now a wilderness of maritime forest, dunes, salt marsh and spits of sand, its human history has been dated to the Bronze Age, around 1300 BC, but it is a territory that since glacial times would have been mobile and mutable. The Laich of Moray is the fertile strip of plain squeezed between the foothills of the Cairngorms and the Moray Firth’s south coast. In Gaelic it is called Machair Mhoireibh (the machair of Moray), a perfect habitat for golf courses and rich arable farmland, threaded by the glacially-rivered straths of Nairn, Findhorn and Spey. Culbin is an old parish which is now buried under 28 square kilometres of duneland and recent forestry. Sweeping east of Narin and curving in to rise up to its greatest heights above the estuary of the River Findhorn, it is now managed by Forestry Commission Scotland, but it is notable that this is a humanl

Scottish Bouldering #New Glasgow climbing wall: The Prop Store

The Glasgow branch of The Climbing Academy (TCA) is just about to open its new bouldering and lead-climbing centre on Glasgow's north side. Its south-side twin ('The News Room')  is already a popular bouldering centre, but the new site will bring fresh inspiration to climbers on the north side of the Clyde. Situated in Maryhill, not far from the West End, this new centre is named after an old BBC prop warehouse, so it's been named ' The Prop Store '.  The centre feels roomy and spacious with a long profile. The holds and panels are super-grippy and there are some free-standing boulders to mantle out as well as an impressive offering of angles, roofs, slabs and subtly sweeping walls.  There is also a section of lead wall with auto-belays for top-roping practice, and a training centre upstairs. They should be open this December, but here are some preview shots.