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Showing posts from April, 2006

ARDMAIR TRAVERSES

1. HIGH TRAVERSE - V3 - from far right, traverse on good holds all the way left along the higher lip of roof.
2. ELIMINATE TRAVERSE - V5/6 SS - from Right Bulger eliminate big holds and traverse to far right and up.
3. MIKE'S TRAVERSE V7/8 - an eliminate traverse of the lower lip of the roof, starting from the Smiley hold, no back wall on roof allowed for feet. Excellent and hard.
4. CUP RUN V6/7 - from low down on roof shelf, gain higher shelf slopers, then reach back twice on tan crimps RH, crux slap left to tan sloper, continue to jugs far left. Good moves and apparently there's an easier sequence with devious heel-toe jams if you're canny!

Ardmair Beach

Just north of Ullapool, over the hill from Rhue, is the restful pebbled beach of Ardmair. There is not-so-restful bouldering at the south end on the excellent roof, which stays reasonably dry even in heavy showers. Across the road, the Ruins area contains Mike Tweedley's two excellent roof problems, Corkscrew and Crucifix (on the obvious propped roof 100 metres along the fence). The problems appear in the Guides section at www.scottishclimbs.com and Ian Taylor has done a good topo as well for the beach crag. Here's a photo-topo and descriptions of the straight-ups at the beach - all done from a sit-start they give roof-monkeys a dozen or more work-outs. Various traverses can be done along the lip, from a grade of V2 on the higher holds to V7/8 on the lower holds, depending on where you start and what holds you eliminate. Ian Taylor and Lawrence Hughes have done most of the link-ups here, but feel free to create your own variations - it's that kind of bouldering wall!

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