Skip to main content

Spring 2012

Dumby... as the days lengthen and improve, so the litter grows! The place may be a mess and a hopeless example of citizenship, but hell, the bouldering is good and folk are getting out on their projects! Good to see Johnny Bean back climbing after his illness, plus some new fresh faces getting the psyche for the place, that's encouraging...

The rock has dried, the chalk grows like a white fungus and still there are new problems to be found. I took advantage of some cool spring weather to work my nemesis of Pongo Sit and did a few new problems. One in particular is a cracker and a 'project' I had stared at for years but never actually tried - the wee groove left of Kev's problem went via a bizarre but pleasing dyno to jugs. It feels utterly impossible until you throw for the lip, the wild swing from the jugs just feels magic when you latch it.

At Craigmore, the recent dry spell brought out the boulderers, but it appears someone is a little too eager with their cleaning and has gone a bit ape-shit with their saws - some trees were chopped and this is utterly unacceptable. Careful cleaning of holds is fine, but wholesale Napalming is not, nor is there any need to chop or even prune trees...they just don't get in the way of the problems, certainly not the worthwhile problems. And no problem, especially the shitty problems, are worth sacrificing 20 years or more worth of growing...

Anyway, rant over, here are the three versions of the Terror Problem explained in a vid. The project of the main face via the left hand on the crimp is still to be done...


Popular posts from this blog

Plato's Cave

In his famous 'allegory of the cave', the Greek philosopher Plato pondered the artificiality of reality in imagining how we could be fooled into thinking shadows on the wall (i.e. virtual reality) could be seen as 'real' life. I'm paraphrasing, of course. What has this got to do with climbing? Well, I was pondering this myself recently while sitting on an artificial concrete boulder at the new Cuningar Loop bouldering park in Glasgow. Does it really matter that a boulder is made of concrete, surrounded by plantation and skirted with kind gravel traps rather than tree roots and spikey boulders? Isn't the 'real' thing so much better: the isolated erratic bloc deposited by geology's long-term aesthetic artwork? Well, yes, that's entirely up to you, but sometimes the artificial saves the day ... I was scuppered by Glasgow's cross-town traffic and turned back to my local artifice that is Cuningar to climb the blue circuit I had imagined as

Timeline Walks of Scotland #Culbin Sands

The Moray Firth’s sand-bitten southern coast, between Findhorn and Nairn, is home to Scotland’s most cautionary tract of land. Now a wilderness of maritime forest, dunes, salt marsh and spits of sand, its human history has been dated to the Bronze Age, around 1300 BC, but it is a territory that since glacial times would have been mobile and mutable. The Laich of Moray is the fertile strip of plain squeezed between the foothills of the Cairngorms and the Moray Firth’s south coast. In Gaelic it is called Machair Mhoireibh (the machair of Moray), a perfect habitat for golf courses and rich arable farmland, threaded by the glacially-rivered straths of Nairn, Findhorn and Spey. Culbin is an old parish which is now buried under 28 square kilometres of duneland and recent forestry. Sweeping east of Narin and curving in to rise up to its greatest heights above the estuary of the River Findhorn, it is now managed by Forestry Commission Scotland, but it is notable that this is a humanl

Scottish Bouldering #New Glasgow climbing wall: The Prop Store

The Glasgow branch of The Climbing Academy (TCA) is just about to open its new bouldering and lead-climbing centre on Glasgow's north side. Its south-side twin ('The News Room')  is already a popular bouldering centre, but the new site will bring fresh inspiration to climbers on the north side of the Clyde. Situated in Maryhill, not far from the West End, this new centre is named after an old BBC prop warehouse, so it's been named ' The Prop Store '.  The centre feels roomy and spacious with a long profile. The holds and panels are super-grippy and there are some free-standing boulders to mantle out as well as an impressive offering of angles, roofs, slabs and subtly sweeping walls.  There is also a section of lead wall with auto-belays for top-roping practice, and a training centre upstairs. They should be open this December, but here are some preview shots.