Skip to main content

January Bouldering News


Hopefully we'll see a few more new problems once we get less stormy weather, but Mike Lee informed me he had completed the Scourguie Woods project, which has fallen at the reasonable grade of 7b+ and is known as Walk the Dog. Knowing Mike's lighter-than-air abilities, I'm sure this is value for money!! The video makes it look very flat and staightforward, have a look at the pic to get an idea of the steepness, then imagine crimping up that!





Tim Rankin managed to repeat Twilight Princess, which is a tremendous start for the year - he confirms it at the 8a grade, anyone for a third repeat? Tim also reclimbed Crimp Like a Chimp on the Portlethen Sports Wall, which he says is now 7b+.

Richie Betts continued the theme of broken holds and returned to Malc's Arete at Torridon Ship Boulder, scene of a recent finger-crime. The crucial half-height ledge holds snapped but the problem was repeated at 7a+ and for the crouch start you now get 7b without change.

Tom Kirkpatrick has also been working through new areas and repeating stacks... he did the Barrel Extension project at Portlethen at about 7b+. Here's a video of some of the classic problems at Glen Lednock by Tom...

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Clyde Bloc Sport

Cammy Bell enjoying the summer evenings at Dunglass

Currently we are developing the Stone Country Bloc Sport website to include a new series of area guides in pdf format, reworking Dumby and other Glasgow-radius crags with sport climbing included (so we'll have the new sports crags at Lomond and elsewhere...details to come!). These topos will also be available from the exciting new Betaguides website (due to launch in the next month or so - a complete database of bouldering in Britain).

For the new Bloc Sport webiste I've been embroiled in all things Joomla, which is frying my head, so can't promise anything too soon, so I'll put the topos up on the blog as soon as we get them. Here's an example topo from the guides, which we will be producing in guidebook format next year - it's the Dunglass sport wall:


Dunglass has been a saviour for me over the early summer, acting as a good training ground to get some basic fitness back. We have fully bolted the West Wall (…

Plato's Cave

In his famous 'allegory of the cave', the Greek philosopher Plato pondered the artificiality of reality in imagining how we could be fooled into thinking shadows on the wall (i.e. virtual reality) could be seen as 'real' life. I'm paraphrasing, of course. What has this got to do with climbing?

Well, I was pondering this myself recently while sitting on an artificial concrete boulder at the new Cuningar Loop bouldering park in Glasgow. Does it really matter that a boulder is made of concrete, surrounded by plantation and skirted with kind gravel traps rather than tree roots and spikey boulders? Isn't the 'real' thing so much better: the isolated erratic bloc deposited by geology's long-term aesthetic artwork? Well, yes, that's entirely up to you, but sometimes the artificial saves the day ... I was scuppered by Glasgow's cross-town traffic and turned back to my local artifice that is Cuningar to climb the blue circuit I had imagined as somet…

Timeline Walks of Scotland #Culbin Sands

The Moray Firth’s sand-bitten southern coast, between Findhorn and Nairn, is home to Scotland’s most cautionary tract of land. Now a wilderness of maritime forest, dunes, salt marsh and spits of sand, its human history has been dated to the Bronze Age, around 1300 BC, but it is a territory that since glacial times would have been mobile and mutable.

The Laich of Moray is the fertile strip of plain squeezed between the foothills of the Cairngorms and the Moray Firth’s south coast. In Gaelic it is called Machair Mhoireibh (the machair of Moray), a perfect habitat for golf courses and rich arable farmland, threaded by the glacially-rivered straths of Nairn, Findhorn and Spey.

Culbin is an old parish which is now buried under 28 square kilometres of duneland and recent forestry. Sweeping east of Narin and curving in to rise up to its greatest heights above the estuary of the River Findhorn, it is now managed by Forestry Commission Scotland, but it is notable that this is a humanly retr…