Craigmaddie Alchemy

Craigmaddie grit bouldering (Pic of Farmer's Trust Font 7a+ Peter Roy)

Ben Litster is in unstoppable form at the minute and no projects are safe! We had shown him the new gritstone venue of Craigmaddie and he ignored pretty much everything and bee-lined for the unclimbed direct on the Sheep Pen roof. This was the direct challenge from the pocket of the classic 'Abracadabra' and he named it 'Alchemy' (Font 7c), continuing the ambient theme of magic. He took a few visits to work out the new counter-intuitive sequence through slopers and crimps to make a satisfying slap for the top, all captured in rasping sound detail by Pete Murray for 'Elelments'. We'll be showing this film at a launch in late March, along with other stunning first ascents in the Lost Valley, Glen Nevis and the North East... plus the new guide will cover all these new areas!

At Brin, Jamie Murray and friends have been cleaning up new lines higher up the hill and the place just keeps giving, the lads climbed a new V7 called Gold Dust on the aptly named 'Dusty' Boulder. Details and pics on Jamie's blog

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