Skip to main content

New Portlethen Testpieces

Tim Rankin has climbed the hardest confirmed boulder problem in the North East, and Portlethen's gnarliest creation so far, at V11. Here's the news from Tim himself:
'...heres the description and as for the grade I don't care but am tempted to give it a provocative 8a+ based on other things I've worked but it must be there abouts 8a/8a+.
This problem takes the challenge of the widest part of the Pit roof from the back then climbs the faint hanging arete feature to finish up "The Pain" Start sitting at the back wall under the widest part of the roof on the right side of the Pit. Desperately pull on using an undercut and a small side-pull, grab the good hold on the lip and power up and left to gain the good undercut and an easier finish straight up.'
February 2006
Tim Rankin has been busy with Chris Adams, best buddy Mark and new Devon boy 'cool-hand' Luke, who is eating up the local testpieces. This well-bicepped North East crew have created some truly hard bouldering monstrosities at Portlethen and Clashfarquhar recently. Latest to fall is Tim's long-term project coming out from the cave into The Pit Right Hand... the crux is a series of undercut reaches and power step-ups on smears. A taped up pair of denims on the right leg is crucial for holding an unlikely knee bar. This is a power problem which requires high-tension accuracy like a drawn bow... a modern classic which awaits a first repeat... Oh, he called it Georgie Boy (after his poor-boy underwear!) and it is a hard Font 7c+ or V10 if you want another number. Two British 7a moves gives you an idea what's needed!
Georgie Boy V10, Portlethen - Tim Rankin
On the wild soaring roof below The Pit, Chris Adams cranked out backwards from the mezzanine to gain the lip. Wild heel-hooking and tenuous sloper moves lead to jugs on the nose which gives EDGE OF REASON at about V7/8. Take plenty of mats and spotters, as this is a line which demands commitment! Rated by all as one of the best in the area...
Chris Adams on the first insane moves of his own Edge of Reason

Tim Rankin on Beyond the Edge of Reason

Tim Rankin put his shoes back on and showed us how to do the low eliminate of this line BEYOND THE EDGE OF REASON V9, which attacks the awful looming sloper below the jugs on the nose, continuing round into the groove. Cold conditions and a good spot are essential to break through this crux sequence.

Luke, cool as you like on the sloper lip of Beyond the Edge of Reason


Popular posts from this blog

Plato's Cave

In his famous 'allegory of the cave', the Greek philosopher Plato pondered the artificiality of reality in imagining how we could be fooled into thinking shadows on the wall (i.e. virtual reality) could be seen as 'real' life. I'm paraphrasing, of course. What has this got to do with climbing? Well, I was pondering this myself recently while sitting on an artificial concrete boulder at the new Cuningar Loop bouldering park in Glasgow. Does it really matter that a boulder is made of concrete, surrounded by plantation and skirted with kind gravel traps rather than tree roots and spikey boulders? Isn't the 'real' thing so much better: the isolated erratic bloc deposited by geology's long-term aesthetic artwork? Well, yes, that's entirely up to you, but sometimes the artificial saves the day ... I was scuppered by Glasgow's cross-town traffic and turned back to my local artifice that is Cuningar to climb the blue circuit I had imagined as

Timeline Walks of Scotland #Culbin Sands

The Moray Firth’s sand-bitten southern coast, between Findhorn and Nairn, is home to Scotland’s most cautionary tract of land. Now a wilderness of maritime forest, dunes, salt marsh and spits of sand, its human history has been dated to the Bronze Age, around 1300 BC, but it is a territory that since glacial times would have been mobile and mutable. The Laich of Moray is the fertile strip of plain squeezed between the foothills of the Cairngorms and the Moray Firth’s south coast. In Gaelic it is called Machair Mhoireibh (the machair of Moray), a perfect habitat for golf courses and rich arable farmland, threaded by the glacially-rivered straths of Nairn, Findhorn and Spey. Culbin is an old parish which is now buried under 28 square kilometres of duneland and recent forestry. Sweeping east of Narin and curving in to rise up to its greatest heights above the estuary of the River Findhorn, it is now managed by Forestry Commission Scotland, but it is notable that this is a humanl

Scottish Bouldering #New Glasgow climbing wall: The Prop Store

The Glasgow branch of The Climbing Academy (TCA) is just about to open its new bouldering and lead-climbing centre on Glasgow's north side. Its south-side twin ('The News Room')  is already a popular bouldering centre, but the new site will bring fresh inspiration to climbers on the north side of the Clyde. Situated in Maryhill, not far from the West End, this new centre is named after an old BBC prop warehouse, so it's been named ' The Prop Store '.  The centre feels roomy and spacious with a long profile. The holds and panels are super-grippy and there are some free-standing boulders to mantle out as well as an impressive offering of angles, roofs, slabs and subtly sweeping walls.  There is also a section of lead wall with auto-belays for top-roping practice, and a training centre upstairs. They should be open this December, but here are some preview shots.