Thursday, December 09, 2010
Sunday, December 05, 2010
It's happening again. No-one expected last year to so gratuitously confound our winter expectations of this globally warmed era of hair-dryer westerlies and 'freezing level above the summits' forecasts, as though our precious 3000ft arbitration had forever sunk below the flirtation of ice ever again, but it's been panoramically sub-zero for nearly a week! Ad my God, the fickle Eas Anie has been climbed as close to November as I can recall.
Like thousands of others, I grew all goose-bumped as the deeper blue animations sank down from Scandinavia and a stubborn Arctic flow bullied in to the Atlantic seaboard and fought a frontal war with big ciruclar guns called 'high pressure', ranked in battalions like Zulu, but in isobars. I traipsed giddily along the Fhidhleir ridge last Saturday before the snows came in and watched with delight all week as the snows filled the air with prawn crackers (borrowed metaphor, thanks Lee!) and it seems our gullies have their 'classic season' stockings already filled.
A breathless and pecking snow-plod up the Inglis Clark ridge on the Brack this Sunday saw some testing leg fitness and usual over-optimism - we found the turf insulated, the gear buried and the snow trap-dooring all over the place, but hell, it's early season fever and it looks like a good one. Bring it on!
Friday, November 19, 2010
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Tuesday, November 09, 2010
Cubby, Dave MacLeod and Donald King found some good accessible conglomerate bouldering south of Golspie at The Mound, Loch Fleet (NH 766 978).
Macleod's Arisaig cave was a hardcore find and Dave found some high-end training traverses on immaculate quartzite. His two main problems there were At Eternity's Gate 8b, Triangulation 8a and All the Small Things Font 8a.
The sea-cliffs at Aberdeen continue to provide meaty testpieces and good traverse training. Tim Rankin did a new problem on the roof just right of the Big Grey boulder called Delirium at 8a+, very slopey and condition dependent through the lip.
Harris saw some particularly avid attention this year, Dave MacLeod climbing Proclamtion 7c+ at the Clisham boulders, plus a few new problems at Sron Ulladale in between trad epics.
Mike Lee did his usual touring of remoe spots and quietly climbed some hard classic lines... at Glen Lednock he did a lovely 7a called Afraid of the Wave, a kind of direct of the Wave problem. He also did numerous eliminates at Dumbarton, including the excellent 7b+ Le Tour de Technique.
I'll add more if I hear of anything but next up is a feature on the new circuit problems - you know, the ones most of us can do!
Monday, October 25, 2010
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Wednesday, October 06, 2010
Saturday, October 02, 2010
Richie Betts took advantage of some fine weather to revisit the Coire nan Arr boulders in Applecross, some of which look like the most perfect rock imaginable. A visit to try The Universal (below) is high on my list, but time and weather has so far conspired against a visit to the north. Hopefully we can get the area mapped and topo'd for the new Torridon and Applecross guidebook for next year.
The Universal - Photo by Richie Betts
Speaking of guidebooks, I've just received the proof of the Dumbarton Rock guidebook by Stewart Brown. It looks terrific and I should have stock by mid October in time for those returning from Fontainebleau to test their mettle... it's an 80 page guide and so far the most complete guide yet to the bouldering (it also includes the sport routes and Dumbuck).
Below is a wee vid of a good 7a eliminate of the Zig Zag sit . I dug some stones away and this allowed a better position for the tricky first move of the sit start. I think a good digging session might link the base of this to the black cave...anyone brave enough to dig down further under the Eagle boulder?
And check out Betaguides new bouldering venues in the UK: this site is a terrific resource for the itinerant boulderer and has plenty of PDF topo's embedded in its pages.
Monday, July 26, 2010
Thursday, July 08, 2010
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
The Stone Country Yearbook is now available at half price. If you want a copy, it can be purchased through Paypal with Freepost and will be dropped through your letterbox next working day.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Check these guys out who are fighting against it, sign up and at least give your voice to it. Could be your local crag next...
Tripping Up Trump | Tripping Up Trump
Friday, June 11, 2010
Tuesday, June 01, 2010
Delirium Crux Pic Tim Rankin
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Ron Dempster tipped us off about these massive blocs on the way to Carnmore, underneath the trad arete of The Beanstalk (HVS) on Beinn Airigh Charr. The boulders in the foreground look good for a few big lines and who knows what lies in the jumble? They lie just to the west of Loch na Uamhag on the northern side of Beinn Airigh Charr, just off the path on Strathan Mor.
View Strathan Mor Blocs in a larger map
Friday, May 14, 2010
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Above all, we are seeking dramatic crag photography or interesting action shots - if you feel you have a good photo, check out the list of crags on the blog and send any sample jpegs in the first instance to John Watson at Stone Country.
The project is effectively a community book, designed to pull together everyone's enthusiasm for and experience of Scotland's best climbing cliffs. If you have any stories, photographs or articles, please don't hesitate to get involved.
Check out the crag list and the articles on the BIG STONE COUNTRY BLOG.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Tuesday, May 04, 2010
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Friday, April 09, 2010
Thursday, April 08, 2010
Dave MacLeod took advantage of a rest day to arrive at the Rhu Cvae fresh to complete his journey into darkness with the link up of the big cave project, citing it as a long 8a and a superb trip on perfect rock. The angle of the quartzite is punishing all the way and clever footwork and full-on technique is key. Check out Dave's blog for updates on this cave.
Saturday, April 03, 2010
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
A few fresh days walking on Mull exploring the excellent granite on the Ross, the Carsaig cliff path and the Gribun area amongst others. The bouldering and cragging is great, for more details see Colin Moody's site.
Here's a map of some popular bouldering areas and some photos from the trip.
View Mull Bouldering in a larger map
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Friday, March 12, 2010
Friday, March 05, 2010
|From Sannox to Lochranza Coastal walk|
|From Sannox to Lochranza Coastal walk|
Make sure you head along to the ruins of the old salt mine to check out the fossilised footprints of a giant centipede (300m years old from the Carboniferous age of monsters) - it was 2m long with a girth over a foot across: the tram trail of this beast is impressive, certainly not something you'd want to come eye to eye with on topping out...
View Sannox to Lochranza Coastal Walk in a larger map
Sunday, February 28, 2010
View Sport Crag at Loch Lubnaigh in a larger map
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Beinn Udliadh has continued to fatten and form some of the best ice in years. We passed a pleasant short day in the corrie on Tuesday with parties on almost every major route: Quartzvein, Cut throat, Peter Pan, Sunshine, Green Eyes, Junior's Jaunt, Doctor's Dilemma etc, with Organ Pipe wall looking particularly fine and the Smirk in as well. Expect it to be busy however - we saw 15 cars parked when we arrived and popular routes were fairly chopped. Little cornicing and the tops were well frozen with the finishing neve good.