Thursday, May 14, 2009

Glencoe Unclimbed and Unclaimed

Last of the Snows

Took a jaunt up to the Coe to do a little trad and check the mountain walls. Not surprisingly Slime Wall was still pretty slimy and catching weeps from snow melt, but all the south faces were drying nicely and the Rannoch Wall was reliable as ever, despite the high winds. Angus Murray tried 'Line Up' but went off route on a new variation 'Wind Up' which meanders right from the first belay, which was fun despite the perishing wind.

'Wind Up' HVS Rannoch Wall - Angus Murray climbing

Despite the fine weather there was only one other party on the wall - where have all the climbers gone? The Kingy is also a sad shadow of its former glory - the climbers' bar is just a museum of old grizzled heroes on black and white ice, or 80's rock stars in lycra. The 'golden era' is long gone I know but the Glen is surely worth a renaissance from gym-fit rock monsters who onsight 8a - there are plenty of wild new lines in the Coe for those young, fit and brave enough...

Awesome 60 m unclimbed overhanging wall in Glencoe


Anonymous said...

So let's do it John - week after next?


Anonymous said...

only if you tell where it is... said...

if you've done the Chasm you'd have seen it

Dave MacLeod said...

went up and looked at it myself a month back. Looked vertical from the other side of the gully and headed off back down to the boulder but then looked overhanging as I walked back down. Might get up there at some point myself. Let me know if you fancy a day up there

dave said...

Hi Dave

we abbed down it last year, the red wall is easier but loose, the right wall looked like e8 bold overhanging protectionless stuff to the easier headwall and gear

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