Saturday, January 06, 2007

Dynos

A recent post on Scottish bouldering dyno's had me trawling through my video collection and I found a few interesting ones and it made me think of the great Gill era of American dynoing and the whole ethic of using dynamic moves to bypass difficult static sequences. There are those who swear by 'static' methods and sneer at these athletic shortcuts of dynoing as a form of cheating gravity, or giving in to a lack of forethought. these are usually hardbitten trad climbers, who naturally wouldn't countenance a full on throw half way up Torro, or on the Etive Slabs (though I know people who have fallen on the slabs and attempted to turn and run down to the ground).

Dynoing is mostly a bouldering art and fits it perfectly, allowing impressive 'parkour-style' solutions through gravity's well, without the threat of crumpling groundfalls or nipple-grating slides. Boulder mats allow a little more adventure in this respect as well, so it's not unusual for boulderers to seek out the perfect dyno. These can be found anywhere with a little use of imagination, but classic dyno's such as the Buckstone dyno in the Peak, or Vienna at Bowden, are rare.

Scotland has a few classic dynamic-style problems - my list would include:

Cathc 22 V9 - Sky Pilot Glen Nevis
The Shield V9 - Dumby
Slap Happy - V6 -Dumbarton (dynamic version) Andy Gallagher dynoing through Slap Happy
Boomer Dyno - V2 - Stronachlachlar Stronachlachlar Boomer Dyno V2
The Pit - V5 - Portlethen The Pit dyno Portlethen
The Main Issue V8 - Reiff in the Woods (bold) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28KUcHnMcHo

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