Tuesday, March 28, 2006
Sometimes you think it's all been done, there's nothing left to do. it takes dedicated eyes to spot new lines and problems, especially somewhere as worked as Dumby. Yet again, Dave MacLeod has pulled out another good problem, this time a clean, natural line, no eliminate. On the 'dirty' side of the BNI boulder, just right of the scrotum-shrinking 'Nadjilation', is the overhanging arete that is now the chalk-ticked technical excellence of 'Sugar Rush' Font 7b. Dave says: A technical wee number that kept us busy for an hour or so. The landing ainâ€™t so bad with a couple of pads and spotter but itâ€™s a good pure arÃªte line â€“ not many of them left at Dumby ...
Thursday, March 16, 2006
The excellent cold and dry conditions in February and early march has allowed Dumby to see some hard repeats, Dave Redpath on Pongo Sit-start and Dave MacLeod on Supersize Me. The question remains, is there an 8c lurking at Dumby??? Here is Dave on his repeat:
"It was put up by Malcolm Smith last June (I was getting close then too but he beat me to it!!). It takes a big diagonal line across a 40 degree face on the boulder, linking up several problems with no let up. Basically Font 7a traverse into Pongo SS. Up this (Font 8a) and reverse the traverse of In Bloom (Font 7c) into Slap Happy Font 7a to finish. About 30 moves in total."
Dave has now done all three Font 8b's in Scotland, the other two being Pressure and The Perfect Crime, both at Dumbarton Rock.