Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Classic Scottish Boulder Problems No. 4

Chris Fryer on The Peel Sessions - V4 6b Glen Clova

The Peel Sessions V4 6b Glen Clova

Though better known for the excellent trad cragging, no self-respecting trad merchant should pass this problem by if in the area. If you can flash it, you should be well good for E4 cruxes - it is the obvious leaning wall above the road on Glen Clova's biggest boulder. An excellent landing means you can start this at sit-level and fall off as many times as you wish at any point... a couple of brisk power moves get you off your bum, then a tricky press move to the left allows a good incut up right...now comes a decision, either wimp out right on nearby jugs, or commit to the big move to a poor left hand-hold just below the lip. If you manage to hold it, keep your technique steady and mantle over the top. Sorting your feet position for the crux lunge is crucial (try a heel-hook on the sloper if you're feeling weak). If you're strong, you might want to try cross-handed... it's hard either way. Posted by Picasa


Chris Fryer said...

The way I originally finished was; from the "poor left hand hold" (obvious from the chalk in the photo) pull up and right to a sloper and then slap left for an OK hold on the lip, matching this and moving slightly left. Other methods may arise if an effort is made at cleaning some of the other holds. I though it V4 from standing, Dominic Kehoe probably did the first ascent from sitting and reckoned V5. Just one of plent of gems (climbed and unclimbed) lurking in Clova.


One the way to the poor left hand hold is a tiny crimp that makes the move slightly easier, but the probelm has been done with and without it.

Dom said...

Quality Problem.
This is the way i did it i think...

Grab the poor left hand hold with my right, then move all the way through to the good hold below the lip with my left. Its harder than the way described above, but it feels alot better, no need for matching. doing it this way from the sitter felt around V5, altough i was severly hung over that day...

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